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The New Agriculture Network's on-line newsletter with seasonal advice for field crop and vegetable growers interested in organic agriculture.
Next issue will be posted May 23. Read previous issues through our calendar of issues.A manual dibbler for planting time By the time you read this, planting may be done, but there is always room for improvement next year. If you are not using a machine to plant your potato tubers or seedling transplants, you may want to replace your shovel or bulb planter with a very inexpensive manually operated dibbler. This manual dibbler that forms conical holes can be built with simple tools for about $20. It works best on wetted, tilled beds. By changing the pin position, hole size and depth, it can be varied for applications ranging from onion sets to potato tubers or larger transplants. If you’re using plastic mulch, your hole won’t be any larger than necessary (which minimizes weeds and wind tearing). (View images of a dibbler.) While this simple device may not be the best choice for acres and acres, it will come in handy for small and large gardens, high tunnels, squaring off and finishing rows planted with mechanical transplanters, etc. Complete plans for building one out of common PVC components and wood are at: http://www.abe.psu.edu/extension/factsheets/i/I50.pdf. |
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Integrated weed management education update from MSU Bulletin reprint out now Supplemental bulletin in the works
Trials to occur in several Midwest states The trials are looking at weed management using flaming, intercropping and cultivating, etc. Based on feedback from organic meetings, we will gather further information on flaming (pressure, humidity and ground speed), cover crop crimping, and cultivating based on growing degree days and hydrothermal time. For the organic farm profiles, we will be visiting farms in Michigan, Iowa, Illinois, Indiana, Wisconsin and Pennsylvania throughout this summer to interview growers and take lots of pictures. The supplement is expected to be published in late 2008. A portion of the information will also be available on the web through the New Ag Network and MSUWeeds.com in the winter months of 2008. The new funding will also allow us the opportunity to present the supplement materials to educators at the North Central Weed Science Society’s annual meeting and to support meetings for growers throughout the region. How you can help |
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Response to weed questions Editor’s note: Several growers included questions in their reports last week about various weed concerns. Weed scientist John Masiunas kindly provided these responses. Questions from Anne Petterson Why do I have so much more chickweed now than in the past years? Chickweed seed has probably built-up in the soils of your farm. Chickweed can produce as many as 6,500 seeds per plant. Chickweed seed can remain viable in soils for over 40 years. Modeling studies indicate that it may take 6 to 9 years of complete chickweed control to deplete 95 percent of the chickweed seed bank. Chickweed seed can found in cow and horse manure, bird droppings and flood water. Are warmer winters and low hoops just bringing it out more? Yes, chickweed in the Midwestern United States is generally a winter annual, but can in warmer climates – or in hoops, tunnels and greenhouses – be a short-lived perennial (living three to four years). Chickweed emergence generally occurs in mid to late September through early November with a smaller emergence peak in March. Warmer winters will extend emergence into December and increase the emergence in March. Questions from Beverly Ruesink Both articles indicate there is no “one method” for quackgrass control in organic crops and that control strategies depend on the farm. Durval discusses a short clean fallow with intensive tillage during July and August followed by a green manure crop and perseverance as keys for quackgrass control in field crops. NAN readers, the Organic Agriculture Centre of Canada website http://www.organicagcentre.ca and the HDRA Organic Weed Management website http://www.gardenorganic.org.uk/organicweeds/index.php have a lot of information on weed management in organic cropping systems. Also HDRA Organic Weed Management website “aims to act as a focal point for [United Kingdom organic] farmers, growers, advisors, and researchers to share their experiences with weeds”. If using either website, recommended times will be earlier and products and cropping systems might differ in the Midwestern United States. Also U.K. common names for weeds are often different from those in the United States. |
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Reports from organic growers Indiana South Central Indiana, Brown County—Dale Rhoads We are in full salad greens production with weekly routine plantings, harvests and setting up sterile seedbeds. We are still transplanting kale, lettuce and leeks. We have started transplanting outside basil. The greenhouse has been transplanted to tomatoes and basil. First sweet corn has been planted. Pie cherries and apples are our only fruit this year. We have a new hand transplanting tool that is speeding up transplanting time. It is based on an old tobacco transplanting device. It seems as if every old tobacco farmer in the county has seen us out using it and stopped by to chat up the old days. Over the past several years we have played around with different mulches for the long season transplants like kale and basil. This transplanter works best with the rotten sawdust mulch we get locally. The mulch can be applied first and we transplant right through the mulch speeding up transplanting and mulch application nicely. The big push right now is to get all the transplants in the ground. Having had several different problems with growing plants to transplant has made this the limiting factor this year – it is always something. Problems with transplants were: Our farming season is sort of divided up into these categories: Illinois We are spreading manure today, but the spreader tractor blew a hydraulic hose so they are working on that. I am getting the hoe on the tractor and getting ready to hoe the oats. In the next two weeks I hope to get manure spread, oats sowed, and hopefully corn ground prepared and planted by the next call. Question West Central Illinois, Fulton County—Anne Patterson of Living Earth Farm Currently I’m transplanting in what area I can get into, i.e. very late setting out cole crops and head lettuce. I’m direct seeding spring lettuce mix, spinach and beets. I have spent more time on weeding and mulching asparagus than should be necessary. In the next two weeks, I’ll plant spring cover crops, set out leeks transplants, plant more flowers, head lettuce and put tomato plants in the field, along with cucumbers, peppers, eggplant, beans, corn, tomatillos and more beets. I will also work on planting more herbs in herb gardens. I will complete a new raised bed area; I’d be really behind if it were not for the few raised beds I have built over the years. Question West Suburban Chicago, Lake County—Steve Tiwald of Green Earth Institute This is our most intense time. In the greenhouse we are seeding lettuce, kohlrabi and winter squash into soil blocks. In the field we are mowing some of the strips with cover crop (rye), tilling selected strips using our Falk spader and prepping them for either direct seeding or transplants. The sugar snap peas have grown enough that we are now trellising them. We will soon be transplanting tomatoes, eggplants and peppers, so in advance we are tilling and laying down the black plastic mulch. Then we will transplant. Also, we are cultivating current crops using hoes and straw mulch. I want advice about cover crop planting. I have 22 acres that are in fifth year alfalfa, and the alfalfa is quite thin allowing weeds and grass to grow. I want to continue this acreage in cover crops next year, but I want a strong stand. I want to re-seed it sometime between now and next spring—probably in red clover, alfalfa or hairy vetch—with a small grain as a nurse crop. My question regards tillage and seeding. I do not want to plow or rototill because I am opposed to those methods and I do not own the equipment. My primary tillage device is a Falk spader, but it is narrow—only 53 inches wide—and I do not want to spade the field with it. Question: is it alright to simply overseed (either by seed drill this year, or by frost seeding early next spring) or is there an allelopathy problem? Iowa As soon as it dries up I will get back to spreading compost. I hope to begin planting corn by the end of the week after field cultivation. I have a lot of overwintering red clover that I hope one trip will get. Immediately after the corn I will start on soybeans. I will probably do some pre-cultivating to get the winter annuals in my ridge tillage system where they are becoming a problem, and then plant as soon as I can get to it. Then weed control trips start on a schedule. Michigan Currently, we have been lightly tilling fields to knock down sprouted weeds to help clean them up before the warm season crops go in later this month. We finished planting the potatoes yesterday, and will continue planting spring crops in the next few days before the next rain system. We have been cultivating the vegetables that we planted on April 18 with our one-row cultivating tractor and by hand with wheel hoes. We are now starting to seed squash in soil blocks in the greenhouse. And we have been transplanting tomatoes, eggplant, peppers and flowers from plug trays into larger sized cells to get some more growth before they get transplanted into the field. Harvest continues from the hoophouse, with spinach, lettuce, arugula, chives, parsley, radishes and turnips being harvested for sale. We plan to transplant the second round of onions, brassicas and peas in the next couple of days. We will have some major cultivation to do with the crops that have already been planted. We will continue to weed, seed and transplant. The peas will need to be trellised. We will likely direct seed the first of our beans, corn and edamame in the next couple of weeks, and start transplanting peppers, eggplants and tomatoes in the field on black plastic under remay. Minnesota I am presently not involved in any direct field work as all of my cover crops are seeded with small grains in the spring. I was hoping to do an initial corn and soybean seed bed preparation pass in late April or very early May, but the weather has not cooperated so I may have to do two passes within days of planting the corn and soybeans, which will not be until about May 20. There will probably not be any direct field practices in the next two weeks except to pick a few stones in the small grain fields. Work will mostly be planter preparation and deciding specific areas for specific maturities and varieties of corn. |
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